page 2
In the Footsteps of
Bashō: small group travel in Japan
with a focus on Japanese Literature
by Beverley George
| Introduction | page 2 | page 3 |page 4
In the
Footsteps of Bashō – the first journey
In late October 2010, twelve
Australians began their journey in the footsteps
of Japanese poet, Matsuo Bashō (1644-1694).
As many reading this will know, Bashō’s writing
was influenced by deep admiration of the Tang
Dynasty poets, particularly Tu Fu, Li Po and Po
Chu-i. In the west he is best known for his
haiku, which stemmed from the hokku (starting
verse) of linked verse, haikai-no-renga,
of which Bashō was a master. In his own day he
was best known for this role of renga master,
and also for his haibun (haiku prose) which
ranged from brief sketches and diary entries to
travel journals.
It was the most famous and the last of his
travel journals, Narrow Road to the Far
North which inspired our first journey,
carefully and imaginatively coordinated by
Mitsui Travel director, Ayako Mitsui, who kindly
appointed me as literary adviser. Consultation
was conducted prior to the trip with Ayako and I
discussing various places of relevant interest,
before she efficiently organised all the
details. Once in Japan we had the services of a
full-time English-speaking guide, well-versed in
history and literature.
Before we set off, all travellers read Oku
no Hosomichi1 (Narrow Road to the
Far North) in at least one of its English
translations, such as those by Yuasa, Hamill,
Britton or Keene. A highlight was that along the
way, travellers took turns to read the passage
relevant to each site we visited. Our journey
took us from Tokyo to Yamagata, heading north in
Bashō’s footsteps, never travelling far on any
day. The poet’s journey, which covered a far
greater distance than ours, ended in Ogaki six
months after he had set out, at which point the
journal concludes. But it is worth noting that,
although travelling in dangerous times, Bashō
spent more than two and a half years on the road
before returning to Edo (Tokyo) in 1691.
Our pilgrimage started from the site of Bashō’s
small hut beside the Sumida River, given to him
by his pupils. Simple, authentic (and
non-touristy), this was a great start. Bashō’s
name was Matsuo Kinsaku. His gō
(pen-name) came from that of a plant, a type of
plantain, that did not bear fruit but whose
broad leaves shredded in the wind. It is said
Bashō drew a parallel with this and the life of
a poet.
Unlike Bashō, who burnt moxa on his shins to
give him strength, we travelled by comfortable
coach and three times across water. There was
also ample opportunity for walking, or climbing
steps, at mountain shrines and temples.
Our group comprised haiku and tanka poets and a
travel writer. All were avid readers. Several
were first time visitors to Japan. By the end of
the journey, every traveller had felt moved to
express some impressions of their journey in
haiku, and several also in haibun.
Bashō museum
watching and listening
the ripples widen
– David Terelinck, Biggera Waters, QLD
|
my feet
too small to fit
Bashō’s sandals
– Jo Tregellis, Cooranbong, NSW
|
waiting for the typhoon
prayers flutter
on bare branches
– Dy Andreasen, Centennial Park, NSW
|
Shinto temple
an icy blast
brings cedar offerings
– Helen Davison, Goonellabah, NSW
|
black pine
layers of needles
layers of light
– Catherine Smith, Elanora Heights, NSW
|
a lone birch
on this high road to Sagae
all the gold spent
– M L Grace, Bilgola, NSW
|
leaves
turning gold, as I
turn silver
– Rob Miller, Biggera Waters, QLD
|
moss
on a stone lantern –
light
enough
– Michael Thorley,Tamworth, NSW
|
five-tier pagoda
a spider on stilt legs
over ancient rock
– Quendryth Young, Alstonville, NSW
|
Hojin No Ie . . .
smoke from Bashō's fire
lingers on my skin
– Carmel Summers, Canberra, ACT
|
mist
on the golden cliffs
koi rising
– Lynette Arden, Norwood, South
Australia
|
Geibi Gorge
the boatman’s chant
flows through us
– Beverley George, Pearl Beach, NSW
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Within the far broader framework of learning about
Japanese culture, by enjoying its nutritious,
exquisitely presented food, sleeping in
traditional Japanese inns (ryokans), as
well as western hotels, and visiting an onsen
(communal bath) on several occasions, our focus
was on the places to which Bashō travelled in 1689
and where he wrote many of his memorable haiku.
Activities included a tea ceremony, a Buddhist and
also a Shinto purification ceremony, apple
picking, a stroll through a traditional market
town, entertainment by two maiko
(trainee) dancers, a calligraphy demonstration, a
ginko, and a bilingual reading. We shared many
hilarious moments as well as more reflective ones.
We crossed Matsushima Bay by boat, threading
between 260 pine clad islands, each individually
named. It is engaging to note that Bashō was so
moved by his first sight of this special place, he
exclaimed but then chose to make poems by others
his “companions for the night”.
Matsushima (pine islands) Bay
Twice we journeyed peacefully by river, in gorges
where the mountains rose steeply on either side,
pines with their evergreen foliage threading the
changing colour of autumnal leaves. In Geibi Gorge
we travelled by ikada (Japanese raft).
The seventy-year old man who poled the boat sang
in a traditional way that moved us deeply.
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